Wednesday, February 11, 2015

Waking Up on the West Coast



After another great train ride over the New Zealand “Alps” on the Tranz Alpine line, we find ourselves at the New River Bluegums Homestay, a small “farmette” on the outskirts of Greymouth. We had journeyed from one coast to the other in a day and are now bedded down a few hundred yards from the Tasman Sea whose rhythmic rumbling lulls us to sleep.



The train ride was again comfortable with squeaky clean new cars, friendly stewards, good food and delicious cold beer or local wine.  We climbed up and over the mountain range with spectacular views up to and over the summit and through Arthur’s Pass.

We had overnighted in Christchurch in order to catch the early morning train. Our walk through the downtown area allowed us to take in the state of this once serenely beautiful city, now still struggling to recover from the devastating earth quakes of 2010 through 2012. Nothing tells the story more poignantly than the gaping hulk of what had been Christchurch Cathedral. While much of the city core has been rebuilt, this classic structure and many others remain in limbo. Boarded up windows and miles of fenced in rubble speak of the work yet to be done. But the trolley is back, punting on the river still goes on and the boys of Christ's College with their wide striped jackets, ties, shorts and knee socks still clatter noisily from building to building in their large campus area.





The black and white cheek patches are school colours at a Christ's College sports match.

We have been so impressed with New Zealand, its people, clean air, moderate climate, social awareness, cultural integration and more, but the highlight for us has been the hiking. New Zealand is world renowned for it long and challenging treks in Milford Sound and along the Banks peninsula. Usually 4-5 days in duration with huts along the way, these tracks bring experienced hikers from across the globe. What we have found is that there are miles and miles of trails (or tracks) for hikers of all levels of fitness. They are a national treasure as are the "reserves" through which they pass.

What makes these trails so marvellous is probably a combination of several factors

  • the natural topography which is stunningly beautiful
  • the obvious pride and community support in maintaining the tracks
  • the trails are well advertised and information is plentiful about how to find trail heads and where to park
  • explicit signage, directional and informational about the vegetation and wildlife
  • uncrowded conditions and where crowds are expected a system of regulating starts and numbers of hikers is in place.






One of the interpretive signs on the Point Elizabeth Walkway taught us that the Maori people used this plant called flax as a material for weaving baskets and mats. Hikers have left "hello's" all along the trail to acknowledge this art and following are a few samples. So lovely to see along the way.



Back at our B&B....the garden is full of interesting nooks and crannies, including this work of art which I would not try to sit on!!!


Everything is "aw roight" as the Kiwi's say!

No comments:

Post a Comment